The Framing Kit Every Artist Should Have

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A conversation recently with an artist friend made me realize how important having a go-to framing kit is for many artists. I have framed most of my work for the last ten years, and while I like to buy a lot of pre-made frames, having the tools to adapt them is essential. I have built this kit up over the years, but it's been in place for 10+ years, and I never need to add anything. Sometimes the depths of the frame I purchase or the materials it comes with (the mat, the backing board) don't quite work for my pieces. Here are some of the items I have in my framing kit and why I use each piece.

The full view of my kit:

The main contents of my artist framing kit.

1. The Scotch tape adhesive applicator. I learned about this tool while working as an artist assistant in grad school and doing a TON of framing. It is the number one tool I use for my framing. This tool applies a double-sided (almost gooey) tape that is very flexible, unlike regular stiffer double-sided tape. I like to back my frames with brown paper and add wire on the back. Adding back paper makes the work very professional and finished. More importantly, it keeps bugs from crawling into your frame and dying. (Have you ever had that happen?) 

Purchase the tape dispenser on amazon here and purchase ½ refill tape. You can get thinner refill tape, but I find it harder to work with. Purchase ½ tape here.

2. This tool is called a point driver and is specifically for framing. It's a bit like a staple gun in that something is shooting out into the wood, but in this case, a little triangle-like pin that holds your plexi and artwork forward in the frame. Then you can use the Scotch tape adhesive applicator to apply brown paper to the back. I also have an extra box of inserts (the actual points) in my toolbox. I use the Logan point driver and flexible inserts. Purchase the driver here and the inserts here.

3. I admit I am really picky about my linen tape. I don't even know how much linen tape I have used in my art career. I buy linen tape that you don't have to wet with a sponge. I purchase the Lineco Linen hanging tape here. This allows you to pull off one side of the tape, and it's already sticky. No mess or inconsistency and no sticky fingers for working with other papers (if you know what I mean- then you know what I mean!)

4. Static attracts to plexi - and everything else! Having canned air is always a must. We keep this in stock for our electronics anyways, but I always make sure I have some to blow out the corners of framed pieces before I put all the layers together. I purchase this at Costco or Target usually. Any brand will work.

5. A little-known fact is that glass cleaners can scratch plexi. They are a bit harsh with their chemical content, so you only want to use a plexi cleaner when you aren't framing with glass. I use plexi 99% of the time, and if I have a frame with glass, I usually get plexi cut and swap it out for the glass. (It's easier to ship, and I can safely leave it around with kids running through the studio.) I usually keep a simple plexi cleaner like this Brillianize plexi cleaner. I purchase it on Amazon, or art supply stores sometimes have it in person.

6. This scratch remover is for plexi as well. Suppose I have a piece travel and come back to the studio. In that case, there might occasionally be minor fine scratches that I can buff out with a microfiber cloth. If I can't buff out a scratch with that remover, it's usually too deep, and I replace the plexi. I use Tap Plastic , and you can order custom sizes of plexi for a reasonable price. Purchase the Novus scratch cleaner here

7. A blade and blade extras are a must for frame kits and the studio. Purchase anywhere. I like to have the X-Acto brand, but I am sure any would do. I also prefer having a smaller blade because I never need anything larger. The one I keep has a size 11 blade. Here is the X-Acto knife and the #11 blade kits

8. I always have pliers handy. These are flat-nose flyers, but needle-nose pliers will also work. They help twist wire and pull staples or other hardware out of older frames. Buy them from any hardware store (or remove them from different sets you already have).

9. I have several different types of hanging options. Some frames are light and don't need wire on the back, so I use the sawtooth picture hangers (the ones centered at the top of the frame, and the piece rests just on that hanging point). I prefer the sawtooth picture hangers that require nails because they seem to work better for me (instead of the one-piece ones that you hammer into the back of your frame). An example of the ones with nails is here. I also use wire and d-ring hooks for larger works. I buy in bulk and usually get 100 or so at a time (which would be for 50 frames since you need two per frame). Purchase d-rings here.

10. I also have a picture hanging kit with different nails for different weights of frames, extra nails, and usually wire. This kit here has a variety of the materials listed above and has less bulk. I buy higher quantities because I know I will use them. Still, suppose you will be framing a limited amount, then I recommend getting something with a range of hooks and wire already included.

I did not include things in the list that I also use:

• A microfiber cloth.

• A toolbox that stores everything.

• A power drill to pre-drill holes for wiring.

I also use plumbers tape to wrap around the end of my wire so it doesn't have sharp spikes.

What else do you use? Did I miss anything in the above list you consider mandatory? I would love to hear about it!